Burda Style Welt Pocket Tutorial

I’m currently working on the Culottes pattern from May 2014 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine which has lovely welt pockets at the back and a fly zipper- both new techniques to me.   As is the norm for Burda patterns, the instructions are vague and confusing.   This is not my first time tackling an intermediate pattern but is my first time sewing welt pockets and I took at least 40 minutes trying to decipher the instructions from the magazine.   What didn’t help is that the method used for these culottes is unlike any of the techniques I’ve seen used in the many welt pocket tutorials online.   To make it make sense to me, I had to re-write the instructions, adding the necessary details and clarifications as I went along.   I thought I’d share this with you.   The instructions below are specifically for this Culottes pattern but can be applied to any pattern that calls for a welt pocket.

  1. Cut welt pieces on bias and cut front and back pocket pieces as directed.   Cut fusible interfacing for welt pieces and strips approximately 4cm (1 5/8”).

  1. Interface welt strips and apply interfacing to wrong side of pattern piece, over pocket markings.

  1. Fold welt pieces in half horizontally, right sides out, and press.

  1. Finish seam allowances in your chosen method- zig-zag, overlocking (serging) or pinking shears.
  2. Transfer pocket markings to the right side of the fabric and mark placement line for welt 1.5cm (5/8”) below marking. This will be the finished width of the welt.

  1. Pin welt piece on right side of fabric with folded edge aligned with placement marking , raw edges to the top of the piece and pocket markings central.
  2. Stitch welt in place along lower pocket attachment line.

  1. On each larger pocket piece, mark and attachment line 7.5cm (3”) from the upper edge.

  1. Pin larger pocket pieces to culotte pieces, right sides together so that the attachment line you have just marked lines up with upper pocket attachment line and lower edge of the pocket piece is to the top of the culotte piece.
  2. Stitch along upper pocket attachment line, taking care not to stitch through welt piece.

  1. Cut Culotte backs between welt and pocket piece attachment seams and clip diagonally into the corners of the pocket markings, leaving long triangles.   Do not cut welt or pocket piece.

  1. Flip welts up and tuck ends into pocket opening, gently pulling triangles to the inside, and pull pocket piece to the inside.   Press

  1. Stitch smaller pocket pieces to seam allowance of welt.

  1. Stitch small triangles to welt, from the end of one pocket attachment line to the other.

  1. Stitch pocket pieces together, using ¼” seam allowance.

You should now have created a beautiful welt pocket.   I’m not sure that this is the easiest, neatest method of making a welt pocket, it was just how the Burda instructions had you do it.   I am hoping to try the various other methods I’ve found and reviewing which method I like best, so keep your eyes peeled.

p.s. Please excuse the ‘deliberate’ error.   I couldn’t get the numbering right on the last few steps no matter how much I fiddled with wordpress.   I got the numbers right but then it wouldn’t display my pictures.